Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
